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Bonkers? No, just crazy good.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  August 12, 2009
rav list

Italian escape

The best of Milan in Portland
One of my earliest culinary memories is of my father bringing home a tin of hard, crisp, almondy Italian cookies. As my sisters and I ate, my father dimmed the lights and put a match to the thin paper wrappers. They began to float like enchanted lanterns. I thought these Italians must be magical.
By BRIAN DUFF  |  July 15, 2009

Bob & Timmy's

World-class pizza in your own backyard
Okay, technically Bob & Timmy's, but actually Rick & José's. I thought that food writer Alan Richman was joking on MSNBC when he renamed the Providence pizza institution, but nope. José Sanchez and Rick Remeika bought the place two years ago, after having worked there for 15 and 10 years, respectively, starting out as dishwasher and busboy.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  July 15, 2009

Espèria Grill & Rotisserie

Come for the gyros, stay for the pizza, lamb shanks, subs, etc . . .
The Center House of Pizza was a regular neighborhood pizza place for more than 20 years, and then, two years ago, suddenly changed its name to Espèria and put up a sign for rotisserie.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  June 17, 2009

Review: Chez Pascal

Regional fare, boundless pleasures
Everything about Chez Pascal, beginning with Monday Market Menus and ending with a gallery show for a Rhody painter, emphasizes co-owners Matt and Kristin Gennuso's support for local talent, be it farmers or artists.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  June 10, 2009

Rue De L'Espoir

So much to savor!
Perhaps the first thing to explain about the Rue's hours is that they represent breakfast, lunch, and dinner times and, on the weekends, brunch and dinner, with a "late lunch" on Sundays. The menu, like the weekly schedule, seems designed for an indecisive Gemini, a genus of which I'm a member.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  May 06, 2009

The Barking Crab

A clam shack with extras
The Barking Crab's second location in Newport is the ideal spot for strolling summer tourists, right in the downtown harborfront
By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  April 22, 2009

Slice of Heaven

All this and bagels, too
Like mama used to say, don't fix what's not broken. In the kitchen, after requisite recipe fine-tuning and repair, after you have it tasting wonderful, slowly step away from that mixing bowl.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  April 08, 2009

Review: Shula's 347 Grill

A culinary field goal
NFL Hall of Fame coach Don Shula is understandably proud of his 347 career wins. He's so proud that he wants to share that fact with diners at his nationwide chain of seven steakhouses.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  March 18, 2009


Lynch tests new, comfortable waters
Famed chef Barbara Lynch has a two-part plan for taking over the Fort Point Channel area.
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  February 27, 2009

Review: Mr. Peabody's

Proud home of 'white trash/gourmet fusion'
It's the kind of neighborhood spot where locals gather for an annual get-together with their state senator, there's a rotating library of book donations on the window sills, and the coffee and tea have their own self-serve corner.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  February 18, 2009

Salvation Café

Going strong in Newport
In the world of quick turnovers, Salvation Café, now in its sixteenth year, is a keeper.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  February 04, 2009


Earth and Ocean
An upscale restaurant in an upscale hotel is disadvantaged in ways that give the advantage to us.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  January 29, 2009

Cucina Twist

High volume, high quality
In the eight-restaurant empire owned by Bob Pinelli and Steve Marra, Cucina Twist has a special place in the hearts of Wakefield and Kingston residents.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  January 21, 2009

European Café

A tasty little getaway
At this time of year, when the weather is messing with us and we don't know whether we're going to romp sand or shovel snow, a restaurant like this can be a lifesaver.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  December 22, 2008

The Loft

Dining in a surreal seascape
The Loft is the restaurant at NYLO Providence/Warwick, a new hotel, so the impression that diners get over their Point Judith calamari or apple-tini is going to affect how they anticipate the digs upstairs; Crisp salad, crisp sheets.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  December 03, 2008

Mike & Patty’s

Lilliputian place trumps Brobdingnagian expectations
Yet another set of owners has now taken over this tiny, nearly invisible Bay Village spot, calling it Mike & Patty’s and serving coffee, tea, pastries, breakfast plates, and sandwiches in the morning, and sandwiches and salads at midday.  
By MC SLIM JB  |  October 24, 2008

Guru the Caterer

Scintillating Indian takeaway — if you can find it
Guru was catering-only for four years before starting takeout service this year.  
By MC SLIM JB  |  October 16, 2008

The Melting Pot

Dip into confusing dining
You can eat pretty well at the Melting Pot, but you need some focus and discipline.  
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  October 29, 2008

Mangia Pizza

Hanging tough with a featherweight crust
Mangia channels a little bit of Naples with a thin crust and simple sauce of San Marzano tomatoes, but it doesn’t hew to the canon the way Gran Gusto does.  
By MC SLIM JB  |  October 24, 2008

Dance, Monkey: Nick Prueher

We put a comic on the hot seat. This week’s victim . . .
I'm wearing Debbie Gibson’s Electric Youth.  
By SARA FAITH ALTERMAN  |  October 08, 2008

Three Rivers

Homemade pleasures in Warren
We’d been hearing about the Three Rivers café since it first opened three years ago, primarily because of the cachet of having Phoebe Dunn’s pies served there.  
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  October 02, 2008

Stone Bridge

Tzatziki and red sauce
The menu leans toward Greek and Italian dishes, the latter red-sauce offerings properly secondary.
By BILL RODRIGUEZ  |  September 25, 2008

Caffé Itri

Enchanting Italian away from the Hill
At 18 years, Caffé Itri is one of the longest-running places on Cranston’s “restaurant row”, and for very good reason, as we re-learned on a recent visit.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  September 03, 2008

Twelve patties, no cake

A burger safari
Can one revive something that is, unlike barbecue, universally American, and steeped in personal nostalgia?
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  August 13, 2008

Rosticeria Cancun Dos

Two’s a charm
The first and most striking difference is that Cancun Dos has tables and a kitchen (at Cancun Uno, you had to settle for a counter and a stove).
By KENJI ALT  |  August 06, 2008

Super nanny

There's more to goats than cheese at Hamdi
Margaret Hathaway, a true goat expert who traveled the US on a quest for the perfect goat cheese and wrote a book called The Year of the Goat, informs me that goat is the next hottest meat.
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  July 30, 2008

The Cooked Goose

Fun, friendly, and a water view
When summer rolls around, we South Countyites like to pretend that we’re tourists right along with the out-of-towners.
By JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ  |  July 23, 2008

It's cookout weather!

Fending off the picnic “fruitcake”
If you’re attending (or hosting) a cookout, then have a heart and offer your guests something besides the obvious norm. Here are a few ideas.
By TODD RICHARD  |  July 23, 2008


And you thought Taberna de Haro was authentic . . .
A divorce and new partners have put Julio de Haro in the position to open Estragon, a larger restaurant with a 1930s-tapas-bar theme. Nostalgia deepens authenticity, no?
By ROBERT NADEAU  |  July 16, 2008

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